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Evo Pro Build Diary – Part 7

With the neck blank glued up and dimensioned to the appropriate size in Part 6 of the build diary, I can now cut the headstock section from the neck blank and glue on the headstock veneer. In the past I used neck blanks that were deep enough to cut the headstock out of in one piece. These days I prefer a scarfed on headstock joint, this saves a good deal of material and also ultimately creates a stronger and stiffer neck.

Sawing the scarf joint

Cutting the angle for the headstock scarf joint using a jig on the table saw.

 The saw produces a very clean cut so the joint can usually be glued without little further preparation.

The prepared scarf joint

The joint cut and ready to glue.

As the joining surfaces are angled clamping can be a bit tricky so, once the glue is applied, each piece is clamped (side on) to the bench to prevent the gluing surfaces from slipping as the clamping pressure is applied.

Gluing the scarfed on headstock

Gluing and clamping the headstock scarf joint.

I use a reasonably shallow angle for my swept back headstocks, just enough to avoid the need for string trees and to retain an acceptable break angle over the nut. While the blank is set aside to dry I cut and prepare the quilted maple headstock veneer.

Sawing the headstock veneer

Sawing the headstock veneer from a suitable billet.

Once the veneer has been cut I then thickness it to about 1mm on the thickness sander and square up one edge to help make sure that I glue the veneer to cover the entire headstock area.

Sanding the veneer to thickness

Using the drum sander to thickness the headstock veneer.

The veneer is glued on to the headstock face and when dry the blank will be ready to start the conversion process into a cut out and carved neck.

The completed neck blank

The veneer glued and the neck blank ready for the next stages.

In the next installment the neck will be cut out, the truss rod installed and fingerboard prepared and glued on.

Until next time…

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